As part of the soundproofing project the roof is padded with sound absorbing material from the inside. I've thought about fitting anti-drumming material first, but finally decided not to do that. Anti-drumming is heavy stuff, combined with the high temperature of the roof in summer, there could be the risk of loosening the anti-drumming. An other option could be the Noisekiller liquid, a kind of anti-drumming paint. I was wondering about the effect of just sound absorbing material without anti-drumming. It stays allways possible to paint the outside of the roof with the Noisekiller liquid as a primer when just sound absorbing matting has to little result.
Despite I haven't done something like soundproofing of the bulkhead, the result of sound absorbing material on the roof is clearly remarkable. The echo is totaly gone and the noise is less shrill. Now you can hear the noise coming from the engine, before this it was just like sitting in a sound box. Another lucky coincidence are the looks and the fact that the problem of condensation is solved.
The isolation materials that I used for are obtainable from www.akoestiekwinkel.nl and www.noisecontrol.nl.
 I started with sealing the grooves between the roofpanels with transparent silicone sealant. You can't paint silicone, so it's not the best option, but for the time being it's waterproof. The roof is still proper painted and all other options need a paint job after sealing. At the time that the roof has to be painted, I will remove the silicone and seal it in a better way and paint the roof afterwards. Sealing on the inside seems to me as a bad idea, because of collecting water in the grooves. The former owner of my Land Rover has done this before and in no time the sealant was rotted an totaly gone and the roof was still leaking again! |
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 This is what the roof looks after cleaning. It was amazing how dirty the cleaning water was! The roof has to be degreased to give the self adhesive matting a good surface to stick on. Apart from that the self adhesive surface of the matting is very good and it will stick to the roof very well. You had to be aware of sticking it to something unintentional, because it will stick for ever! |
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 The two strengthening tubes will stay in sight, so I gave them a quick paint job before. |
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 There was a number on the roof. I have no idea what's the meaning of this number. Who knows may tell me. |
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 This is a part of the material I used for. It's called Tecnocell from Merford. As you can see it's pretty thick to it's able to absorbe much noise. It has an attractive surface on the outside, so it looks nice when fitted. It's special made for cabine building of diggers and stuff like that. There is a self adhesive surface on the back, which is very adhesive. Thanks to the thickness it will cover up little bumps and hollows. |
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 The maximum obtainable size of the material was 1,00 x 1,40 mter. So it was a bit of puzzling to fit it nice and sparing. Finally I needed four plates to cover up the whole roof and there were still a couple of small parts left. By the way the material is easy to cut with scissors. |
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 In the centre I stuck three parts between the strengthening tubes of the roof. And on both sides three parts. I covered up the grooves between the parts by an aluminium profile, which is normally used for carpetting. These are self-adhesive profiles, but after a couple of days the profiles fell of the roof. Now I've sealed them with transparent Bison sealant and popriveted it onto the strengthening tubes. Now it's still there for some time and some hundreds of kilometers. So it look likes this will do the job! |
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 This is the way it looks. I'm satisfied by the result. Let's do the rest of the car, at some time it becomes a luxery car inside! |
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 And another photo to the backside. |
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 The front corners were most difficult to stick, because of the curving of the roof in two directions. |
